| FAQ's Page |
1. How often should I have my instrument checked?
I like to advise my clients at least once a year. The
instrument should be professional inspected and lubricated
at least once a year, and if you play more frequently I would
advise every 6 months.
I like to advise my clients at least once a year. The
instrument should be professional inspected and lubricated
at least once a year, and if you play more frequently I would
advise every 6 months.
The picture on the left is an Eb pad that is one year
old, the pad on the right is new. This saxophone is
from a player that plays out frequently.
old, the pad on the right is new. This saxophone is
from a player that plays out frequently.
| Click photo to enlarge |
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Preventing Cracks in Wood Instruments
A.K.A. To oil or not to oil the wood.
It is my personal opinion that wood, no matter how old, is a dynamic material, expanding and
contracting in direct response to it's environment. There are many conflicting thoughts
among "experts" on how to prevent cracking. No matter what anyone says, wood will
respond to changes in humidity, temperature and barometric pressure. It is a combination of
these forces that place stress on the wood. The more rapid the changes, the harder it is for
the wood to adjust. Further stress is caused by the posts and register tubes that are
inserted into the body. Another factor can be the quality of the wood itself and how long it
had been stored and dried prior to machining it and inserting the posts and tubes. The
quality of wood used in manufacturing has been fairly low for the last 10 or so years due to
supply problems. I have actually seen wood used that has knots in it. Knots are very dense
and I have seen cracks occur following the outline of the knot itself. Mpingo (the African
name for grenadilla)is a very slow growing tree that is also used by natives for fuel for
cooking and heating as well as carving statues, masks and other objects that are sold
worldwide. Only a small amount of the wood makes it's way to musical instruments.
Oiling may or may not be effective. However we feel it can't hurt. It helps protect against
moisture though many fine players and repair people as well as makers of instruments
suggest that the wood is so dense it can absorb only a very small amount of oil and in some
cases that may temporarily deaden the tone. However, more and more techs are starting to
oil woods using Sweet Almond oil and exotic formulas that contain a variety of natural
substances. Who's right? Probably no one will ever know. After many years of being on the
fence on this issue we at Desert Winds now believe in and use an Almond oil soak as part of
our re-pad and overhaul procedure. It makes dry, old wood look great, it tightens up loose
posts and some players swear it helps correct pitch problems and that "played out" feel
many player complain about in older woodwinds.
With that said we still feel the best one can do to avoid cracks is use common sense and
avoiding rapid changes of temperature, swab the moisture out regularly when it is being
played. Not just when one is finished playing as is common but also in between pieces and
during breaks. And praying when the weather becomes unstable can't hurt either.
I have worked in many parts of the country and have been in the desert for many , many
years. I have noticed no real difference in the number of cracked instruments I see here as
opposed to cooler, moister climates I have worked in. So just use some common sense by
swabbing often and keeping the temperature and humidity as constant as possible.
Thanks to Desert Winds for this contribution
A.K.A. To oil or not to oil the wood.
It is my personal opinion that wood, no matter how old, is a dynamic material, expanding and
contracting in direct response to it's environment. There are many conflicting thoughts
among "experts" on how to prevent cracking. No matter what anyone says, wood will
respond to changes in humidity, temperature and barometric pressure. It is a combination of
these forces that place stress on the wood. The more rapid the changes, the harder it is for
the wood to adjust. Further stress is caused by the posts and register tubes that are
inserted into the body. Another factor can be the quality of the wood itself and how long it
had been stored and dried prior to machining it and inserting the posts and tubes. The
quality of wood used in manufacturing has been fairly low for the last 10 or so years due to
supply problems. I have actually seen wood used that has knots in it. Knots are very dense
and I have seen cracks occur following the outline of the knot itself. Mpingo (the African
name for grenadilla)is a very slow growing tree that is also used by natives for fuel for
cooking and heating as well as carving statues, masks and other objects that are sold
worldwide. Only a small amount of the wood makes it's way to musical instruments.
Oiling may or may not be effective. However we feel it can't hurt. It helps protect against
moisture though many fine players and repair people as well as makers of instruments
suggest that the wood is so dense it can absorb only a very small amount of oil and in some
cases that may temporarily deaden the tone. However, more and more techs are starting to
oil woods using Sweet Almond oil and exotic formulas that contain a variety of natural
substances. Who's right? Probably no one will ever know. After many years of being on the
fence on this issue we at Desert Winds now believe in and use an Almond oil soak as part of
our re-pad and overhaul procedure. It makes dry, old wood look great, it tightens up loose
posts and some players swear it helps correct pitch problems and that "played out" feel
many player complain about in older woodwinds.
With that said we still feel the best one can do to avoid cracks is use common sense and
avoiding rapid changes of temperature, swab the moisture out regularly when it is being
played. Not just when one is finished playing as is common but also in between pieces and
during breaks. And praying when the weather becomes unstable can't hurt either.
I have worked in many parts of the country and have been in the desert for many , many
years. I have noticed no real difference in the number of cracked instruments I see here as
opposed to cooler, moister climates I have worked in. So just use some common sense by
swabbing often and keeping the temperature and humidity as constant as possible.
Thanks to Desert Winds for this contribution
Care & Feeding of Newly Re-padded Sax
Congratulations! Your saxophone has just received a professional quality mechanical
overhaul and re-padded! Let me explain exactly what work was done on your instrument. We
disassembled the saxophone and swedged the keys (refit them so the key is tight against
the posts with no end or side to side play). This enables the pad to come down over the
tone hole in the same place every time. The old pads were removed and the key cups
cleaned. To insure the best possible contact between the pad and tone hole, all tone holes
were refaced, de-burred and polished before reassembly. The body of the saxophone was
washed and chemically cleaned to remove old lubricants, dirt, corrosion, etc.. New pads
were installed with a high quality stick shellac, no hot melt glue, used here, to properly float
and seat each pad individually and with meticulous care. Before installation, each pad was
treated with a multipurpose silicone sealant. This prevents moisture from penetrating the
pad as easily and prolongs the life of your pad job. All hinge rods and pivot screws were
coated with a long-lasting lubricant. The instrument was then adjusted. This makes sure that
the pads on keys that operate in tandem are closing together. The pads were allowed to
settle for 24 hours, after which another regulation was done.
Professional quality re-pads are expensive, but in the end it is worth it, provided you make
sure your horn remains in top condition. Here are few suggestions to keep your saxophone
and its new pad job in prime condition.
Bring in your instrument for regular maintenance at least once a year. Often, little
adjustments will go out or a key will get slightly bent. It is best to catch these problems early
before they affect other parts of the horn.
Keep in mind that the pads are made of leather and wool, two very porous materials. The
silicone sealant will help guard against moisture, but it cannot prevent major water damage.
Always swab your instrument out with a pull-through type swab after every practice session
or performance. If you are playing for long periods we recommend that the horn be swabbed
out every 30 minutes, if this is feasible.
We do not recommend the use of PadSaver, "shove-it" type swabs. These swabs do not
absorb moisture very well, and because they remain inside the horn, the moisture that is on
them comes in direct contact with the pads. The fibers of these swabs break off and can get
lodged in the key mechanisms, causing binding. The fibers can also come between the pads
and the tone holes, altering the seating of the pad and causing leaks.
Do not eat or drink sugary substances before or during playing. Sugar is an enemy of your
pads and key mechanisms. The silicone sealant has no effect against the power of sugar,
and your pad job simply will not last.
The outside of the instrument may be gently polished with a soft cloth. Avoid hitting the
edges of the pads as much as possible. It is not necessary to have a cleaning substance on
the cloth -- these chemicals put a film on the instrument and attract dirt rather than repel it.
Dirt and lint will also cause the keys to bind -- we recommend vacuuming the case once a
week to avoid lint buildup. If lint and dirt do appear around the keys, they may be removed
with a shot or two of compressed air. Compressed air comes in spray cans and should be
available at your local hardware store, camera shop, or computer store. We do not
encourage wiping the dirt away with a cloth or a brush -- the springs can be dislodged and
the pads are easily rubbed.
The wool, leather, and cork materials used in the re-pad of your saxophone will expand and
contract with the ambient humidity. The seal of the pad will also be affected by the player's
own finger pressure. Great care has been taken to "set" your instrument up to play with a
"light touch." Variances in touch from the technician to the player combined with early
compression and expansion of the leather, felt, and cork will create a need for minor
adjustments to be made. We recommend that after you have played the instrument for six to
eight weeks that you bring it back to Harbor Winds for a free checkup and final adjustments.
By taking good care of your saxophone, you will find that in return it will give you a lifetime's
worth of making music.
Thanks to Desert Winds for the ideas contributed to this web page.
Congratulations! Your saxophone has just received a professional quality mechanical
overhaul and re-padded! Let me explain exactly what work was done on your instrument. We
disassembled the saxophone and swedged the keys (refit them so the key is tight against
the posts with no end or side to side play). This enables the pad to come down over the
tone hole in the same place every time. The old pads were removed and the key cups
cleaned. To insure the best possible contact between the pad and tone hole, all tone holes
were refaced, de-burred and polished before reassembly. The body of the saxophone was
washed and chemically cleaned to remove old lubricants, dirt, corrosion, etc.. New pads
were installed with a high quality stick shellac, no hot melt glue, used here, to properly float
and seat each pad individually and with meticulous care. Before installation, each pad was
treated with a multipurpose silicone sealant. This prevents moisture from penetrating the
pad as easily and prolongs the life of your pad job. All hinge rods and pivot screws were
coated with a long-lasting lubricant. The instrument was then adjusted. This makes sure that
the pads on keys that operate in tandem are closing together. The pads were allowed to
settle for 24 hours, after which another regulation was done.
Professional quality re-pads are expensive, but in the end it is worth it, provided you make
sure your horn remains in top condition. Here are few suggestions to keep your saxophone
and its new pad job in prime condition.
Bring in your instrument for regular maintenance at least once a year. Often, little
adjustments will go out or a key will get slightly bent. It is best to catch these problems early
before they affect other parts of the horn.
Keep in mind that the pads are made of leather and wool, two very porous materials. The
silicone sealant will help guard against moisture, but it cannot prevent major water damage.
Always swab your instrument out with a pull-through type swab after every practice session
or performance. If you are playing for long periods we recommend that the horn be swabbed
out every 30 minutes, if this is feasible.
We do not recommend the use of PadSaver, "shove-it" type swabs. These swabs do not
absorb moisture very well, and because they remain inside the horn, the moisture that is on
them comes in direct contact with the pads. The fibers of these swabs break off and can get
lodged in the key mechanisms, causing binding. The fibers can also come between the pads
and the tone holes, altering the seating of the pad and causing leaks.
Do not eat or drink sugary substances before or during playing. Sugar is an enemy of your
pads and key mechanisms. The silicone sealant has no effect against the power of sugar,
and your pad job simply will not last.
The outside of the instrument may be gently polished with a soft cloth. Avoid hitting the
edges of the pads as much as possible. It is not necessary to have a cleaning substance on
the cloth -- these chemicals put a film on the instrument and attract dirt rather than repel it.
Dirt and lint will also cause the keys to bind -- we recommend vacuuming the case once a
week to avoid lint buildup. If lint and dirt do appear around the keys, they may be removed
with a shot or two of compressed air. Compressed air comes in spray cans and should be
available at your local hardware store, camera shop, or computer store. We do not
encourage wiping the dirt away with a cloth or a brush -- the springs can be dislodged and
the pads are easily rubbed.
The wool, leather, and cork materials used in the re-pad of your saxophone will expand and
contract with the ambient humidity. The seal of the pad will also be affected by the player's
own finger pressure. Great care has been taken to "set" your instrument up to play with a
"light touch." Variances in touch from the technician to the player combined with early
compression and expansion of the leather, felt, and cork will create a need for minor
adjustments to be made. We recommend that after you have played the instrument for six to
eight weeks that you bring it back to Harbor Winds for a free checkup and final adjustments.
By taking good care of your saxophone, you will find that in return it will give you a lifetime's
worth of making music.
Thanks to Desert Winds for the ideas contributed to this web page.
Do your pads look chewed up, have holes in them, well you
just might have the dreaded pad mite.
Pad mites are tiny bugs that can survive in your instrument
by eating the pads.
Once they invade your instrument it is
impossible to save the pads. They eat
holes into the pads, and the pads can no longer gain a
proper seal therefore causing leaks in your instrument. The
best solution to this gnarly problem is to completely
disassemble the instrument, throughly clean it, change all
the pads and replace the case because eggs will most likely
survive a vacuum or sweeping.
This is a more common problem than you might imagine.
This is a common problem with school instruments, that sit
over the summer in a locked instrument room. Come
September and the clarinet, saxophone, or flute does not
play thanks to these hungry little buggers. And that's where
we come to the rescue. We can clean, and restore the
instrument.
just might have the dreaded pad mite.
Pad mites are tiny bugs that can survive in your instrument
by eating the pads.
Once they invade your instrument it is
impossible to save the pads. They eat
holes into the pads, and the pads can no longer gain a
proper seal therefore causing leaks in your instrument. The
best solution to this gnarly problem is to completely
disassemble the instrument, throughly clean it, change all
the pads and replace the case because eggs will most likely
survive a vacuum or sweeping.
This is a more common problem than you might imagine.
This is a common problem with school instruments, that sit
over the summer in a locked instrument room. Come
September and the clarinet, saxophone, or flute does not
play thanks to these hungry little buggers. And that's where
we come to the rescue. We can clean, and restore the
instrument.